About 11 posts above yours is a picture of the correct long frame blade. 11 inches seems close to the overall difference in length.
Which axle mount are you using?
Did you move your lift point forward on the A frame when you stretched it?
Make sure your lift handle linkage on the tractor is set up right too.
These blades aren't made by MTD and you can tell that when you pull back on the lift handle.

1056 Yes I moved the lift point forward and I'm using the axle bracket in the forground of the pic. I don't have the flat bar that's between the blade frame and the tractor, but I can make one of those.

It's the pic in the first post for the bracket.


Willy

Willy something about that A frame looks funny?
You did say in a previous post you had modified the length correct?
Could you measure it from the mount at the back to the pivot bolt at the front?

Also are you lifting the snow plow directly off the bellcrank or off the lift bar that connects to the bell crank on the later models like yours?
This will give you more leverage & make it easier to lift.

I have a spare snow plow & pieces to put on your tractor.....you have an 875 I'd like....

Karl,
If you're watching this thread, shouldn't this thread be "Pinned"? A lot of good info here, or at least to me. Of course your thread about putting on the plow and the one about removing the deck were keepers for me also. Just a saying.......

I don't see any lift link in that picture. How did you lift it before you realized you needed the link?

The frame looks a little extra long too. My theory is that the blade should clear the front tire by about 2 inches max when fully angled. Anymore than that and you start multiplying the "push the front of the tractor sideways" effect when you push with an angled blade.

P.S. >> as a previous owner of 2 GT1100/1142's, you should try to hang some extra weight on the front of the tractor frame to aid with steering. Those little Briggs engines are about 45 pounds lighter than the big Kohlers and you can really feel the difference when the blade is angled. (especially on the second notch)

Never mind....
I see what you did. You used the mower deck lift point on the lift bar. (#27 in the picture) You're lucky you can even pull the lever back at all!
The link you need is about 4 inches long and hooks where the following diagram specfies. That should make it much easier to lift you blade.

TT your thinking he has the lift bar going directly into the A frame?
If so that make things bind up & would be very hard to lift!
I'm thinking thats an early long frame style too?...I thought it was odd how far it stuck out too.
I have come across a few short frames with them on there?
Just thinking ideas...I'm not to far from Willy & may have to make a house call.
Never though about the B&S engines...but sharp eye again TT...all aluminium & not even a steel cylinder liner.
Front wheel weights with the Work Horse smoothies tires in front would be a big help!

Yeah -- the lift link attachment is way too far forward. He said it's a "short frame" A frame lengthened 11 inches.
Looks like something is sticking out off the "T bar" (as some people call it) to reach it?
OR .... maybe it has a real long lift link with a sharp bend so it can be hooked up to the lift arm, but throws the geometry off so bad that it's pulling back while trying to lift at the same time?????

I tried to enlarge that part of the picture so you could see it better:


The lift link should be hooked to the back A frame crossmember in this photo. (or at least the second one from the right)
No wonder he can't lift it!

Tickster next time I'm in Mi. I'll measure. Looking at my own picture, the blade does look like it's too far forward, I put a two piece lift linkage on it. I lengthened it just forward on the frame where it starts to bend in, is that confusing. I suppose I should measure it with the blade at full angle, leave a few inches for clearance and shorten the frame. If anyone has a schmatic on how the frame attatches to the tractor I would appreciate a pic. Thanks .


Willy

Also what is the bellcrank? I added another piece of angle iron to the frame.

Now I think I know what I did wrong, I have it hooked on the wrong lever. I have it hooked to the snow thrower hole instead of the blade hole. Thanks everyone.


Willy

I have this thing hooked up all wrong. I have my lift arm hooked to the mower attach point.

Am I right to assume that no.19 is hooked to no.27 by the lift bar? If so are the nuts put on loose to allow it to pivot?


Willy


OK I see no19 is the bell crank.

Willy there is a chain that runs between the "Rockshaft #19" & the "lift bar#27".
You can see it in the blow up...the chain hangs off the trunion & is bolted to the lift bar.
There is also another link about 4" long that hangs off the lift arm & then attaches to the plows A frame.

You can see it in Terry's 520 plow pic...the silver colored part ..that what attaches to your lift arm.

Steve, The older style rear dozer blade hitch on my 953 should any 42" snow / dozer blade from an C-Series tractor . Ben

Ben if your asking if a newer A frame will fit your 953 correct rear axle bracket...yes as long as the pin is wide enough in the A frame for the older wider style bracket to grab it.