My horse always used some oil, more than it should, but I could keep up with it. Since I fixed the fuel supply problems, it runs stronger, faster, but uses more oil! I can run it for 2 hours and the dipstick says ADD. It only has 720 hours on it. I think it sat for a few years after the old gentleman that owned it died-when I got it I ran SEA Foam thru the oil & the gas.
I wanted to completely rebuild it-but rainy day fund is very low-helping grandkids with a place to live, etc. Is there any chance that I could tear this thing down and get away with just a new piston, cast iron rings, and a good hone job with a Flex-Hone? Of couse cleaning out all the carbon etc. It does not make any noises, just burns oil to beat the band.
I have rebuilt unpteen car engines, maybe my ridge reamer will fit if I collarse it far enough. What do you guys think? Any chance? I've already heard the "Gloom & Doom" from the local Dealers-"your going to spend $1500 on that thing". What am I likely to find when I open this up? Thanks-AL

It may have gotten hot and cracked a ring. If so, the more you run it, the more it will score the cylinder wall, and the less likely that it will be a simple hone & go fix. Personally, I'm not a huge fan of just honing anything. My theory is that if it's worn enough to smoke and use oil (even before the new issue) then I would figure on boring it out. But understanding the budget issue, it won't cost too much to put a set of rings in it to try it.
My $.02

I could very easily be the rings. I would pull the engine tear it down pull the piston and mic the cylinder and examine the rings. As kj4kicks stated you may have a cracked or broken ring. I deffinatley wouldnt be running it!

Cheers Duke

Make sure the crankcase breather isn't plugged, and the air filter is clean too.

TT- The air cleaner is new-but just to be sure we are talking about the same thing-where is the crankcase breather and how do I tell if its clean? Thanks-AL

The crankcase breather is the rectangular cover located behind the float bowl of carburetor. (carb has to be removed to access it) It's held to the engine with a single 1/4" stud & nut. (It is also the cover for the valve spring cavity in the engine block.)
Depending on the spec # of the engine it could have a rubber hose connected to the air cleaner mounting plate (not normal for WH engines) or just a single "louvered" hole punched in it from the back side. There is a one-way reed valve on the inner plate and a vapor collection filter under the outer cover. (P/N 235118-S)
When the engine is running, you should feel small pulses of air coming out the vent hole. If you do happen to remove it for cleaning, it would also be the perfect time to check / set valve clearances. It does require two gaskets (P/N 235048-S and 275144-S) and a seal (P/N 231032-S) for reassembly. I have encountered a few of these that were assembled wrong, so pay attention to how it comes apart. The reed petals MUST be on the outside of the inner plate or the crankcase will be unable to vent.

I only mentioned the air filter because if it's restricted enough, it will cause the engine to "draw" harder when on the intake stroke. This could result in "extra" oil being pulled up past the piston and rings. This would be highly unusual, but it could happen. (or we wouldn't have learned it in class. )

Anybody deal this this guy over in the Garden Tractor Swap site before? He says he has K-301 shortblocks-reasonable price- TINRABBIT? -AL

Yup I know him He's alright I've bought from him on ebay and off of Brian Millers site.
Duane

Hey ! How do you get in touch with this guy-I've left messages on the site-no reply-Thanks-AL