I cant find any pumps with specifications for lift and suction hose length but the oil reservoir might need to be at or above the inlet for some pumps. I did see some information that said a power steering pump could be up to 12" above the oil level but that must vary by pump manufacturer and model.

Nick in Ohio

He actually was going to try this on a C-175 with a K-321 on it now.
We figured another option would be to move the battery down to the frame and install a reservoir up where the battery used to be -- basically at the same height as the pump.

Hay I'm home from work and boy did I think about this topic while mindlessly sanding bondo, What about the clutch/brake linkage? depending on what years your doing, 77 and older or newer, I know it could be modified, but if your talking about using a hydro lift bellcrank they don't have that in the way.
I like the idea of using a small pump (power steering) with a remote resevoir and the hydro bellcrank. I need to go look at my parts pile.

That's strange! I just came in from the shop with a few pictures and a "critical" measurement.
The stroke on a cylinder or actuator would need to be 7 inches to move the outside arm through its arc of full travel. (pre-'77)
view electric actuator (it might be a little light-duty, but they have more)

This is (was?) a 1977 C-160:




And since I was halfway up the hill behind the shop I took an "aerial" photo of my parts pile

I've got a pile like that but mine is in the barn I just can't figure out what can go out side? I see the brake linkage on that tractor I'm sure it could be retrofited to a stick tractor.

By the way, I don't know what it is for sure (trailer parts?) in front of the RER cub, you have a axle with bolt on wheels, I picked up a set of spindles I cut off a toro grounds keeper? very old, When I got home I was looking at them, and I thought try them on my 520 forward swept axle so I pulled a hub, it was a perfect fit, so they are going on my FEL tractor and I can change wheels with out messing with the bearings and with the loader I don't need a jack.

This is kind of a hybrid unit -- a 1970 Charger 12 frame (and hoodstand) with a three speed transaxle. (The beginning of the "Wicked Wheel Horse" / "Rat Rod" tractor. ) There may be a clearance problem with the brake drum/band, but without trying it "for real", I don't really know.



The electric lift kit for the '75 / '76 gear drive tractors (P/N 84222) uses the exact same bellcrank/lift arm shaft (P/N 6615) as the Electro 12 with hydraulic lift. That should tell us something, huh?

I believe the clutch rod could be bent to clear a hydraulic cylinder too. The electric lift kit had a special rod, and it should be the same principal.

That is a heavy-duty axle assembly from a portable conveyor. It has 4.00/4.80 X 8 tires that I thought I could use on one of the round hoods. It was free and might actually end up being the basis for a sulky/cooler cart for the shows.

Kelly, Those Groundsmasters did have the same 1" bearing on the rear steering axle as a 520, I used one of mine when we had a flat. My Load Ranger has the comlete axle on the front just cut the rim width down. My groundsmaster rims were only 6" though not 8".

This probably was not a grounds master, I'll try to give a decription, It looked like a box on the back aprox. 4'x 5' all metal, with a seat going all the way acrossed the front of the box, it had a trike style front end with a 23x8.50x12 front wheel regular tractor rim, with the engine mounted right above it(7hp kohler I bought) it was belt drive to a jack shaft with a pulley tensioner/ clutch with a chain drive down to the wheel, the rear axle was a piece of square tubing with spindles welded on the ends, that's where I cut it. it had I think 18x10x8 tires on it but it's the same four bolt as a boat trailer. I'm not sure what it was. sorry

That's quite a parts pile, TT. I'm sure I could use some of those parts.

As I look at your picture of the C-160 and the Raider 12, I'm beginning to get a clearer picture of what is needed for this type of setup. I wonder what I would need to do something similar or there abouts for a '98 314-8?

Way up there near the start of this topic, you'll find a parts drawing that I have labeled "1978 & up hydraulic or manual lift".......
Part #9 in that drawing is what you'd need. Once you get everything apart that's in the way, you can pull out the manual lift lever/shaft, and slide the "power" lift shaft right in place. The hydraulic lift cylinders on the "newer" tractors lay right in along the frame with the "dead" end having a 3/4" mounting hole that slides directly over the footrest support rod behind the brake pedal. The rod comes out the "back" of the cylinder and hooks to the bottom of the arm on part #9. (clevis and pin style)
You can even get the OEM left side cover without the hole for the manual lift lever -- to make it look like a factory installation.

I don't want to lead this too far again, but here's that axle, Kelly:

That's a nice looking axle. looks to be in good shape tires and all.