This is a two-parter...

1. What steps do you take when prepping a tractor for long term storage?
2. What steps do you use when resurrecting a sleeping machine?

I'm getting ready to park a Commando V8 for some untold length of time since I have dozens of other projects ahead of it in line. I know what my general modus operandi is, but I'm wondering what those of you who also have bunches of these things do when you store a machine for a long time.

Generally when I park a tractor for storage I change the oil and transaxle lube, grease everything, run it out of fuel, remove the battery, tuck it in the shed, and put it up on blocks if I know the tires are leakers. Most of the time I have mimimal trouble coaxing them back to life after they've been sitting a few years, but every once in a while I find one that wants to remain comatose as is currently the case with the H70 Tec on my WH Trailblazer 7 snowblower that receieved my regular storage treatment last spring.

When I have trouble getting them to fire up after sitting for a year or more, the problems seem to follow certain patterns. On Kohlers I seem to have trouble with the breaker points. On Tecumsehs it seems to always be carburator related even though I usually also remove and drain what little is left in the bowl and lines after running it out of fuel (haven't yet figured out the problem with the snowblower though). Never (yet) had a storage-related issue with a Briggs. Fuel pumps also seem to go south too- especially those diaphragm types used on k181's on 854's and others.

I'd imagine that fogging the cylinder(s) with oil would be beneficial. And perhaps taking the tension off any drive belts might prevent them taking a "set" or stretching. And putting some mouse/rat poison around them might minimize nesting rodents that haul in their own building materials to construct their hovels...

Really, small engines seem to be the most problematic for me when trying to put them back into service. I take no special steps with outboard motors or big tractors since I use them sporadically and don't bother with any "winterization" procdurers that I might need to "undo" and have never had a problem. I never use gas stabilizers since I make an effort to buy alcohol blended fuels at the pump and I usually drain stuff anyway - I had 3/4 tankful (about 9 gallons) of untreated fuel sit in my old John Deere B for two years (forgot I didn't drain the tank) and it didn't "gum", "varnish, separate or otherwise go bad. Tractor started right up with a few spins of the flywheel after remaining motionless for two years! i don't plan on having that kind of good luck again though....

Hopefully this will be an interesting thread and I thank all in advance for their wisdom and suggestions.

Steve

I'm no fanatic but I would drain the carb and gas tank. Make sure the oil/lubes
are good. Spray WD40 in the cylinder. Disconnect battery. I don't know
what causes your points problem. Moisture maybe? I've used WD40 several
times on a wet distributor to get it to fire when it has gotten wet. I don't know
why but WD40 displaces water in a wet distributor.

Because it was developed as a water displacer for the military. It gets it's name from the military -*test*-('")s. Water displacement formula number 40.

the name WD-40 acctualy means water displacment formula 40 and was originaly made for goverment use in extream wet enviroments where metal things getting rusty wasnt a good thing.
i need to learn to read prior posts hehe.

but yeah i WFD-40 the under sides of decks for winter and use fuel stabilizer

Ya learn something new everyday!
And I thought it was Wow! Damn!-40

The last line of the quote made me prowd.... God I my Briggs and Strattons.... you can let them sit, abuse them, leave 'em filthy (I don't do any of that if I can help it) and they still come roaring back to life ready to work--how come they still don't get ANY respect

Tony

Steve, I pretty much follow the same routine you describe, and I do fog the cylinder(s) and release tension on belts.

In the matter of draining fuel, I've heard both ways (I leave it in and use a stabilizer). Some say old fuel will gum things up, some say draining can lead to dried out gaskets and diaphragms. Darned if I know, but I'm only a passable (on a good day!) mechanic, so I try to avoid anything that will lead to to a tear down unless it's already broke!

When I take the beast out of storage I usually fire it up on an old spark plug if I can to let the fogging oil foul that one, then put in a new plug for the season.

So far I've had excellent results with my push mower (Honda), string trimmer (Echo), chain saw (Stihl), snowblower (Ariens), boat and the two green tractors at my Mom's house. I won't be using my 312-8 this winter, so I plan on mothballing it (actually Bounce dryer sheeting it) with fuel in. I'll let the group know how she starts in the spring.



Duff

I dont have anything else to add to this discussion, except to throw another idea out there....

I was reading a bulletin from a race engine manufacturer last week, who recommended once a month turning all engines over 180 degrees. The purpose is to change which of the valves are open, in order to prevent the valve springs "taking a set". Racing engines have strong springs, and high lift cams, so the problem may be a little more acute, but those soft springs on small engines might be even more prone to problems

On a small engine it also may help with valves sticking in the guides?

Or else on a single cylinder engine, you could just make sure it is at TDC on compression (valves both closed) to take the load off the springs.

Just a thought....

Tony im with you on the old briggs,i have 3 at present a 7hp cast iron,a 14hp cast iron and a 16hp cast iron.the 7hp i have owned for aprox.16 years,no matter where or how i leave em or how long they are always easy to get fired up and ready to work.

We should touch on some thing Steve wrote, he talked about the Kohler Points needing attention after sitting. I also go through this from time to time and I will say the points cover gasket along with the rubber ignition wire grommet need to be in good shape. If water can get into the points condensation will occur.

Disconnecting the battery is also a good idea and if you have a trickle charger it's even better.

Leaving older dry rotting tires with heavy wheel weights sitting in one position over a long period is not good either.

Grease all the joints heavy so moisture does not get in.

Keep the Wheel Horse well covered, if water gets on during the day and freezes at night you might get exspansion in places you don't want.

Put spray lube on the throttle and choke cables.

Worrying 'bout mice .... not on the Pearson Plantation too dang many cats hangin' 'round. I think that the mouse home building problem is jus' in Connecticut after the poisin ivy drys up in the fall.

Wild Bill in Richmond, Va.

Nope, Bill - not just Connecticut.

They've got some beady eyed little cousins up here in New Hampshire that love red tractors - probably because they know it's a solid home that won't collapse before spring. But the little bastids can't stand the smell of fabric softener sheets, so I've got some measure of control over things for now.

26 degrees with a wind chill factor of 12 as I type this. Gonna be a long, cold night! (shivering smiley wrapped in a blanket)


Duff

I would also add that you should always park any machine with tires on concrete or wood blocks. Tires sitting in direct contact with the ground for extended periods will cause them to dry rot in those spots.

Kevin

I bought a pair of 250 gallon oil tanks and filled them with 89 octane and stabil.... then I added a bunch of quick connects and I just let all of my tractors idle 24/7-365. No problems except for worn rings.....

Tony

I agree with the above

FYI I just picked up a couple of these when I was ordering some wheels from Surplus Center:

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=...catname=engines

I have no idea if they are any good, but the price is right!

I dont have anything to add but a couple things.

1) For mice stuff BOUNCE dryer sheet softners around by the engine or areas they could build a nest "THEY HATE THE STUFF"

2) Fog the empty gas tank if you drain to keep from rusting.

3) Jack wheels up off ground axels on wood blocks.

4) If it has a battery use a battery tender!