i pulled the governor linkage off the rod (or pivot axle) sticking out of the block by the carb and exhaust while trying to get enough room to put on an exhaust pipe and muffler,well now my governor is out of adjustment.this is on the k301 12hp engine on the C160( only good engine i had extra when i put the tractor together).what is the trick to resetting the governor linkage back on the rod in the right position?thanks jim

With the rod attached between the governor arm and the throttle shaft plate on the carburetor, pull the top of the governor arm AWAY from the carburetor as far as it will go (full throttle) and hold it in place while you rotate the governor shaft COUNTER-CLOCKWISE as far as it will turn. (the same direction that the governor arm moved)
Hold both parts in this position and tighten the pinch bolt in the governor arm.

TT, don't take this the wrong way, but you amaze me. Is there anything you don't know? Honestly, you deserve more than just thanks and praise.

Now, knock that off, Eric!

Well, currently I don't know how to find a real job.
.......but I bet you fellers can figure out what I do in my "off time", huh?

thanks very much TT.

one other maybe silly question TT.does it matter where what position the throttle on the dash is in?

Not technically, Jim.....
But if you move it to full throttle, it should hold the governor arm in the correct position. That will free up your hands to rotate the governor shaft and tighten the pinch bolt.

OK, I'll ask another stupid question.

Is it possible to over-rev a Kohler K, if you have a working govenor?

Ok, I think the answer is yes. Heck, I don't know!!

The answer is "yes" if you have the control linkage and/or cable improperly adjusted. (over-revving means to exceed 3600 rpm no-load speed)

Here is the drawing for the K series Kohler big blocks. (some models may vary)


Most WH applications have the additional relay linkage arm mounted on the blower housing with a rod running to the speed control bracket. The throttle cable crosses from the PTO side of the engine and is fastened to the crankcase breather stud by a "P" clamp. The inner wire is then attached to the relay linkage arm on the blower housing by a cable stop.

Loosening the 1/4" bolt and rotating the throttle stop bracket counter-clockwise will decrease the rpm at full throttle.
Magnum engines (single cylinder) have a different arrangement that uses a throttle stop screw located on the relay linkage arm mounted to the blower housing.

Since I already had these saved at Photobucket, I figured it would be a good idea to post these "small block" governor adjustments here too.

thanks again TT.hey btw are you sure TT doesnt stand for "TOP of the line TECHMAN".lol.seriously,your knowledge and patients with us newbies is just great.

I was just about to post a question regarding the throttle/governor on my K91 - 400 Suburban, when I spotted this thread. Unforunately, it doesn't seem to address my specific issues.

First, I need to know how the throttle cable is correctly routed around the engine - front or backside. And second; how, specifically, the cable attaches to the governor arm. I saw the drawing from the Kohler manual (posted above), but I'm not sure it is directly applicable to the 'Horse'.. A pic of the original install would be fantastic.

I don't have a picture of the routing of an original cable, but I'm pretty sure the cable housing leaves the "P" clamp at the control lever bracket under the hood, travels forward over the hoodstand and loops down and back around 270 degrees and fastens to the bracket behind the throttle disc with another "P" clamp. (the cable would be coming straight up from down near the tractor frame.)
I'm thinking there's a hole in the lower right corner of the hoodstand for the housing to pass back through, but my 400 is buried right now so I can't look.
Figure 6-42 shows the correct attachment of the inner cable to the throttle disc, but it would be turned 90 degrees ccw for your WH application.

Thanks TT,

I've seen the cable routed both ways and just wondered which was OEM. My intent, is to not drift too far from the original installation if I can avoid it. But at the same time, make it full functional AND reliable. This tractor, not unlike many I've seen, came to me without the throttle/choke assy. I can understand a defective part, but it still escapes why so many have been removed.