Ok I'm preping the engine for my rat tractor,A 16hp out of a CC it has the 1" crank I need, and the small base block to fit my oil pan.
I'm putting a S/G on it for looks, and I love how quiet they start, I have the older sheet metal for it from a 1067 thanks to Perry I -*test*-('") fit the tin blower housing to see if it would clear the ring gear, didn't think it would, and it didn't Question 1, does the ring gear come off like a car? little heat and tap it off?? before I mess up a flywheel that I don't have a spare for.
Question 2, having to use the oil pan from a 1055 (very shallow) how much of the dipper on the rod do I cut off?? setting the pan up on the block looks like about a inch, how close to the bottom of the pan should I make it??
Question 3, I'm not running a gov. on the engine, can I leave the gears in?? and the rod sticking out of the block?? I'm not tearing the engine all the way down, just rings and gaskets.
And it does not have ballace gears in this one, not sure if the 16hp had them or not??
Any cheap tricks to get a little more power out of this? must be cheap or free this is low budget.

Kelly,yes, a 16 can have grenade gears but if it has a ring gear starter then it has a stator for charging and came out of a Quiet Line so it "shouldn't" have had G/Gs.
You might be able to get the ring gear off by heating it or you could probably swap the F/W for a non ring gear style(off a 14hp....easier to find)
I cut a rod down for a shallow pan but it has been so long ago I foget how much....I would think a 1/4" from the pan is close enough.
If you are running it without a governor are you running a STEEL flywheel?If not PLEASE do not run it around anyone you care about,it is a time bomb.

I'm not pulling it, it will be just a toy to drive around.
And yes it was from a quitline 1650.
So do I need to pull the gov. gears or can I leave them in??
I'm going to cut the dipper a little at a time till it clears and go just a little more.

Kelly, what Big Mike is saying is that a cast Kohler flywheel can explode if spun over 4000 rpm.
You can leave the governor gear and shaft in the block and it won't hurt a thing. You can actually leave the governor completely hooked up and still get 4000 rpm (or more) out of that engine just by adjusting the throttle stop.
Brian Miller says to cut the dipper to half the length if you are using a long dipper rod in a short sump engine.

Just an innocent question, and apparently it's not a major issue.

But wouldn't cutting the dipper throw off the balance of things? I realize it's aluminum and pretty thin down there on the end, but still....

Like TT says, either govern it to 4000, or get a steel flywheel. When that cast jobs come apart, and it will sooner or later, it'll do so with a vengeance.

The mass removed by cutting the dipper will affect the balance but not to a point that will be noticable or affect longevity.

Ok I found steel flywheels I put a gov. on it I can't swing that kind of money for that, and don't need it for pulling, I was thinking of not having a gov. so I can drive it more like a car direct to the carb. but I like my legs and other parts, so I will put the gov. arm back on, when I reasemble it, Any tips on how to set it up to be more drivable??

You witnessed the Black Tractor in operation, Kelly....
All of the governor parts are still there and functional -- I just hooked up the MSC foot throttle cable to the exact same place the original hand throttle cable used to go.
You should actually be able to hook one up to your 16 a little easier - since it doesn't have the throttle disc like my 8.

Thanks TT I will do that, Now I need to get a cheap tach. to set RPM's