Acrylic Urethane Paint

QUOTE (Butch @ November 15, 2008 01:29 pm)

It looks like the hardners for the Acrylic Urethanes require a breathing
apparatus because of the chemicals in it. I read on another site where
someone said he tried it and was sick for days with lung problems. He
said there wasn't anything doctors could do or any medication for it. It
looks like I could be going back to the Valspar Restoration series of
paint. I didn't think this was gonna get so involved.

The Valspar hardener requires a supply of fresh air too. ALL hardeners do, or at least, all I've ever heard of.

Another post points out the difference between the high quality guns and the cheap copies. The parts aren't made from the same hardness or finished metals and the abrasive action of the solids in the paint will erode the internal parts of the cheap ones much more quickly. If you only plan to use it for a few hours over your lifetime they work OK, but if you plan to really work them the cheap guns just don't hold up.

I'm going with this.

http://www.kirkerautomotive.com/images/PDF/ULTRAGLO.pdf

I've read where people are very happy with the paint. The price is
fairly cheap but it comes in 3/4 gallon cans. I'll probably use
their primer and may even clear coat it. If I buy the complete kit
it comes with the clear. I'm gonna use one of their reds, just not
sure which one. Their activators do contain Isocyanates so caution
must be used.

That's some interesting paint there. I've never heard of them. I am a little curious about the 2 hour pot life. Seems pretty short and may make it hard to get everything sprayed and the gun cleaned in time. I would use a little reducer with it also. Once you start spraying you'll probably feel better working with thinner material. It levels out a bit better. You may want to buy some cheap enamel at the home center and play with your spray equipment a little on some scrap before you start mixing up the good stuff.

I've got a craftsman trailer I will probably practice on. I'm only painting the
tractor frame at first to see how it comes out. The hood and fenders will be
the last thing I do. I've searched the web about the paint and people like it.
$48 for 3/4 gallon and $20 for the activator.

http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/Automotive...veFinishes.html

Butch the best secret to watch how your paint is laying down on your parts, if you have your head to the side of the paint gun and are watch the flow of the paint as it hits the part ,it helps you understand what is going on and how to control it , if you are going to fast or slow ect. the paint will tell you right away (wet/dry) but of course you will get hit with more overspray but ofter a couple times you will not have it do that again, also the size of the tip on the gun makes a differance ,the bigger the number the more it throws paint, I just use a detail gun, it takes me longer but finish is the same, you also should use a mask always when you spray anything even rattle cans, you can buy the paper mask to use if they have a n95 number(I think) rating that means there ok for fumes they just dont last as long.

QUOTE (Brian1045 @ November 15, 2008 11:22 pm)

Yes thats the gun I moreless painted the entire tractor with. Only mine had a cheaper style plastic canister.

I did shoot some primer through it and it did fine. But I was told that the needle isn't designed for primer, it could wear it out quickly.

Heck if it screws up or wears out I'm only out $30. I may go buy a couple more just to have around. whtractor/thumbsup.gif

Thanks Ill hafta give one a try! whtractor/thumbsup2.gif

thats a good point about the mask...I cant tell you how many times with the rattle can ive sprayed without a mask...I really didnt think much about it until I read this post whtractor/imstupid.gif

Going to get mask before painting again for sure..Ive been painting in the garage lately and the fumes are even worse! whtractor/thumbsup2.gif