I started restoring the charger 12.I pounded,tapped,filled,primered and sanded the hood nice and smooth.I sprayed it with rustoleum and it layed out smooth.after about five minutes the paint started to wrinkle down one side.I stripped,to bare metal,reprimed,sanded and reshot the color.perfect!after setting for a day I wet sanded the entire hood,washed and rinsed thorouly, and dried completely.put on the second coat and the other side wrinkled. What did I do wrong?
Second issue,I got some of the rustoleum safety red,as some people on here sugggested, and sprayed the raider hood just to compare.The paint dried alot faster ,but it is no where near as shiny.And alot lighter in color.Has anyone had these issues? Or is it just my poor luck.
Thirdly,if thats a word,Has anybody heard from Vinylguy? He sent me some pictures of the decals I need and I e-mailed back to confirm,and never heard back.I e-mailed him about a week ago and still no response.I called his number and left a message last friday, hoping he would call me back.
I know he and his wife had some health issues and moving over the summer,but I thought he was back on track again. I was just hoping everything is well with him and he is just super busy with his work.I know a couple of people,on here, are closer to him than others,and hope someone can verify he is doing well.
This is probabely in the wrong section,but I figured I would get more response here.If it should be in the paint section please go ahead and move it. Thanks, Brian

Bdanie, I had the same problem with some of the parts I painted with Rustoleum Regal Red out of a rattle can. After much swearing , some tinkering , experimenting and several good head scratches the only common denominator I could come up with was where the wrinkling occurred I had laid the paint on too heavy.

Since then I've backed off on the thickness of the coats and I make sure I apply the next coat just as soon as the first starts to tack up. Another problem I used to have was with temperature. I was painting outside and let the parts get too cold between coats, also causing wrinkles. Since I don't have a paint booth, I have to paint outside, so in cool weather I let the part warm up inside my shop, run out and put on a coat, then run it back inside to stay warm. Makes for some interesting carries with some of the larger parts, but so far, so good. The neighbors enjoy the show....

Good luck!


Duff

When it wrinkled did the primer also wrinkle? Was it bare metal or over old paint?
If your shooting over old paint I can see heavy coats of new paint lifting the old and bare metal being too smooth to stick.

If your shooting on bare metal you should use metal etching primer.
Also paint does like to lift at the adges of old paint whare it's been sanded to metal.

He made a couple of posts in the decal section today.

stripped the hood to metal,due to the previous owner painting it green,and used self etching primer.someone said to use sealant after the self etching,and since i didnt,that was the cause.I have a hard time believing that since it moved,to the other side after the second coat.
should I have used a sealer over the etching primer?

You dont need sealent over primer. Rust-o does not call for it. The only time I can think to use clear paint is if your doing spot repair trying to blend new paint with old. Even then it's the new paint mixed with clear.

I was thinking
Were you shooting out side? If so the side that lifted. Was it the shaded side.

inside alarge heaated shop with exhaust fans from both directions.
The first coat went on nice and then the left side of the hood wrinkled.After a day of stripping the bad and re-priming and sanding I let it set all night and painted in the morning. With all the wrinkles fixed I wet sanded the entire hood and washed it completely. Iblew it off with air gun,with filter and dryer in supply,then let it set for about an hour. I tacked the whole hood and then sprayed the second coat. It looked absolutely great for about five minutes.then the rright side started to wrinkle.At that point I decided to quit till I could figure out what was going wrong. I dont want perfection as I am going to use these tractor,I just want them to look good.Thanks

Just remember if you do use a primer sealer, you can't sand anymore. Primer sealer is a type of primer too...just not a sandable primer...per say.

I had a similar experience once. I forced the paint that was a little to thick in the first place, to dry to quick. It was hot outside and I had fans a blowing right on the panels and got some wrinkling.

Etching primer is a lot different than filler primer. I'm not sure if you can use straight etching primer underneath your top coat red without a filler/sandable or sealer primer in between.

The only thing I can think to do is try a different reducer.

Ive have had the same problem with Resto paint.
1. If not appling color within 1 hour after appling primer let dry a full 24hrs at 70deg
2. coats of color must be applied with in 1hr or let set a min. of 48hrs after appling.

I have also found that oils from my hands and sweat have a adverse affect on the paint . Now when painting I treat the area as a clean room and washup with plain dish soap before handleing/ sanding/ painting.
After following these steps I do a lot less repainting and now have a little better time painting and am not as afraid of doing the job.
Hope this helps

I was letting the primer dry for a couple hours before wet sanding.I would then paint the color about an hour later.the second coat went on about 12 hours after that,the next morning.
sounds like I need to adjust my spraying times and thickness.I really appreciate the input and advice.I hope that I can fix my screw up without restripping the entire hood.

Brian. whare is primer sealer normally use?
I've had no problems doing it that way. Your right it is a much thinner primer and if you trying to fill you would want to go with afiller primer.

I have used just a metaletch and then filler primer and regretted it. So I use etching primer then a filler primer to take care of imperfections.
But thats me.

You did not mention the conditions under which you are painting.

It was around November 18th and if it was cold in your area, that
is likely why it "wrinkled" or blistered up. Or you might have been
in a warm environment, but the metal was cool/cold.

I know there are people who paint in the cold, but you really need
to get paint, surface to paint and your environment at 68 degrees or
higher. You will have better luck.

And prep the surface by cleaning it with "prepsol" or alchohol before
painting. Do not touch the surface to be painted with your bare hands.
Paint reacts badly to contaminated surfaces.

I've only jacked with primer sealer once.

I was talking to the paint guy at Napa, and he said most people use it to help to keep bondo and heavy primer areas from "bleeding" through so the final coat of primer or top coat paint would cover easy.

It can be lightly wet sanded I suppose, but in my experience it seems to dry slow and setup like a gloss rattle can paint.
Some peeps say I should have used an etching primer on all the bare metal parts before I used the filler primer. I used 80 grit down to the metal, then primered. So I'm hoping that will be enough to make everything stick well.